Permitted Tokaj grape varieties
Prior to the phylloxera that arrived in 1885, some 30 to 40 grape varieties were grown in the Tokaj Wine Region. However, more than 80 % of vines died during the epidemic. Before the replanting began there was the opportunity to regulate the grape varieties permitted in Tokaj. The aim at the time was no longer was quantity but rather quality. That was when the three main varieties which can still be cultivated today were chosen, to which later three more were added.
Furmint
Hárslevelű
Sárgamuskotály
Kövérszőlő, Kabar és Zéta
Naturally Furmint can be said to be our flagship variety, and it dominates planting in the wine region, covering 60 %. Then come Hárslevelű (19 %) and Sárgamuskotály (9 %) with Kövérszőlő and the recently developed Kabar and Zéta (6 % together). Each of the grape varieties has its own character and purpose that make the palette of Tokaji wines so exciting and diverse.
Furmint
Opinion is divided as to the origin of Furmint. It could have come from Italy, France, Syrmia (today in Serbia) and Tokaj, although based on the wealth of vine variations we find today in the Tokaj Wine Region, Tokaj seems to be the cradle of Furmint. Current DNA tests show it to be the descendent of Gouais Blanc and so in the same family as Chardonnay and Riesling. It was traditionally harvested together with Hárslevelű around Simon-Judas day at the end of October, but for dry wines in most vintages in recent decades harvest time has moved to September.
Furmint has slightly oval berries that become golden yellow when perfectly ripe. With marked acidity and rich flavours plus its excellent ability to develop into aszú berries, it has become the leading Tokaj variety. Although not a highly aromatic variety, its fresh, fruity wines often carry notes of apple, pear and citrus.
Hárslevelű
Thought to be an old Hungarian variety, Hárslevelű is primarily known and grown in countries of the former Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. Genetic tests show one of its parents to be Furmint.
It was probably named after the shape of its leaves which look like leaves of the linden tree (hársfa in Hungarian), and this name also appears in other languages (French “Feuille de Tilleul”, German “Lindenblättrige”). Hárslevelű wine often evokes linden honey to mind.
Round berries grow loosely on bunches that often become enormous. The largest area of production is the Tokaj Wine Region where it is softer than Furmint, making a more aromatic wine.
Sárgamuskotály
Known worldwide, Sárgamuskotály is an ancient grape variety and was probably already grown by the ancient Greeks. The most fragrant and flavourful of the muscat grapes, it is same as the French grape Muscat à petits grains.
Early ripening, small, shouldered bunches as in western grape varieties. Totally ripe berries are distinctive yellow. In the sun they turn rusty brown colour.
Particularly good for fragrant dry wines to be drunk fresh but late harvest wines and Aszú with special flavours can also be made from Sárgamuskotály.
Kövérszőlő
Old Hungarian variety whose exact origin is not clear. The Hungarian name translates as Fat grape, most probably after the large round yellow-green grapes growing in loose bunches. Kövérszőlő ripens earlier than the other Tokaj varieties, and in favourable years grapes can become superb aszú berries.
Fruity aromas are typical of its wines. Fragrances and notes of honey, hazelnut, dried apricot and propolis appear in higher quality wines.
Kabar
The result of breeding in Tarcal: Kabar is the cross of Bouvier and Hárslevelű 1007 clone. Dense bunches, medium size, round berries, yellowish-green. Excellent variety for accumulating sugar with relatively high acidity (8-10 g/l). It can be harvested earlier than Furmint or Hárslevelű.
Dry and unusual sweet wines can be made from it. Alongside its lighter acid structure, it has the tropical notes of Bouvier and makes wines with light and silky texture. Excellent at developing aszú berries.
Zéta
Ferenc Király created this variety in Badacsony in the 20th century. Zéta is a cross between Bouvier and Furmint. Small dense bunches with average size berries that are slightly oval, yellow-green. Restrained crop yield but excellent sugar accumulating ability. The acidity of must (10-13 g/l) is higher in favourable circumstances. Susceptible to rot but in good Aszú vintages it gives lovely aszú berries. Zéta can be a varietal wine but is usually blended, mainly in late harvest and Aszú wines which are rich in perfumed aromas, sweet with an oily texture.
Vine cultivation
The most common form of cultivation in the Tokaj Wine Region is the so-called Royat cordon, although Guyot cultivation is spreading, particularly for Sárgamuskotály. Traditional goblet cultivation is still practised on valuable terraces in both new plantations and old vineyards. They are left primarily for landscape reasons.
The harvest in the Tokaj Wine Region starts in early September for the early ripening varieties, e.g. Sárgamuskotály, and the grapes for base wines for Hungarian sparkling Pezsgő. The first generation of aszú berries often already develops at the start of September, particularly in Kabar and Zéta.
The harvest of perfectly ripe fruits for dry Furmint and Hárslevelű happens during September and early October.
Given the right conditions, increasing numbers of overripe grapes start to shrivel and become aszú berries, concentrating from the second half of September. And so begins the large-scale harvest of all the wine region varieties to provide the raw material for Sweet Szamorodni and Aszú.
When the fungus Botrytis cinerea infects (from inside or outside) perfectly ripe grapes that are suitable for becoming aszú berries and favourable weather conditions occur, special flavour compounds are created during metabolic processes.
The aszú harvest can last right up until the end of November. The aszú berries develop in several cycles in a vineyard so there are often two or three different generations of aszú berries – in outstanding years even four can develop. Only the perfect aszú berries are picked, and the bunch itself stays on the vine so the remaining grapes can develop into the next generation of aszú berries within a couple of weeks.
